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48 hours in McLaren Vale

Our pick of the best wineries, accommodation and things to do in magical McLaren Vale

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48 hours in McLaren Vale

As the Australian summer draws to a close, there’s still plenty to discover around the city of Adelaide. Just a 40 minute drive from the CBD (and served by the Metro rail as well as regular buses and tours), McLaren Vale is one of the world’s most geologically complex wine regions. That mean stunning ocean views, rolling hillsides and a gorgeous Mediterranean climate, as well as an incredible range of wines to try. The wineries and cellar doors of McLaren Vale are equally varied, spanning the uber-modern to the quaintly traditional.

Our pick of the best spots makes for a perfect 48 hours in the Vale, but of course you can spread things out, take your time, or explore just a couple of spots to discover your new favourite tipple. Cheers! 

The d'Arenberg Cube

d’Arenberg
Osborn Road
Chester Osborn is one of the area’s biggest personalities. Back in 2003, the fourth-generation winemaker was inspired to build the d’Arenberg Cube, a Rubik’s cube-like structure that’s become one of the region’s best-known landmarks. Filled with art work, cheeky trompe-l’oeil pieces and even an exhibition of Dali’s sculptures, the journey through the Cube is designed to engage every one of the senses before you sit down to taste the wines in their airy, modern space. There’s a dizzying array of experiences on offer here, including a helicopter ride, but the wine is the star. Osborn uses ancient vines and traditional techniques to create stunning Shiraz and Grenache, all with their trademark red stripe label. You could honestly spend a whole day here. 

Samuel’s Gorge
193 Chaffeys Road
Even though Samuel’s Gorge has only been established for 20 years, a visit to Justin McNamee’s vineyard feels like you’re stepping back in time. Offering small-batch wine made by hand (visit at the right time and you may well get roped into crushing some grapes), their rustic cellar door is low-key and utterly charming. McNamee is a born host and will happily talk you through his wine-making point of view (long, slow, patient, and for God’s sake don’t overcomplicate it). This philosophy extends to his vines, planting grapes that will thrive and express their rustic barn charm. They specialise in reds, and it’s hard to imagine an occasion that wouldn’t be enhanced by their Graciano. That said, if you get the chance to get your hands on their sparkling Shiraz don’t hesitate. 

Dandelion Vineyards

Dandelion Vineyards
191 Chaffeys Road
Elena Brooks’ winery epitomises the blending of tried and tested techniques with new thinking that’s so representative of the best of McLaren Vale’s producers. The aptly named Wonder Room hosts their tastings: guests select from one of three experiences, each accompanied by a series of stunning seasonal mini-bites produced by chef Chris Bone. Brooks knows her stuff (she started learning the ropes as a child at her mother’s knee in a winery in Bulgaria) and is an amazing advocate both for the Vale and women in wine. Her Reisling is a thing of beauty, particularly if you’ve only ever been exposed to the sweeter German version of the wine. If you’re in Adelaide over the summer then Dandelion’s Lawn Picnics should not be missed: you get a picnic basket of home-made goodies, a bottle of wine, a blanket on the lawn and views for days. Utter bliss. 

Yangarra Estate Vineyards
809 McLaren Flat Road, Kangarilla
Yangarra’s new cellar door is a futuristic space with huge windows sharing panoramic views over acres of vineyards. Grenache is the key wine here – they farm around a quarter of the Vale’s oldest Grenache vines (that translates to plants that are at least 70 and often older) and the Grenache-only tasting is a phenomenal way to get to understand this sometimes taken for granted grape better. Their cellar door has been designed to offer an insight into the full production process, with catwalks overlooking rows of French oak barrels and the intriguingly shaped ceramic eggs and amphora they’re increasingly using for fermentation and maturation. The ultra-modern set-up contrasts with the traditional techniques used, such as basket pressing and wild fermentation: a fascinating insight into how the best of old and new wine-making combines. 

Oliver's Taranga Vineyards

Oliver’s Taranga
246 Seaview Road
Corrina Wright heads up a vineyard that’s been owned by the same family for six generations. Wright is one of the leaders of McLaren Vale’s ‘plant well to do well’ movement, which sees winemakers seeking out new grape varietals that are naturally well-suited to the Vale’s unique terrain. It’s a simple enough idea: plant the right vines in the right place for them to thrive, allowing more and more growers to ditch the chemicals and high-impact farming, producing wines that are organic, biodynamic and low-intervention. Oliver’s Taranga’s cellar door is cutely low-key, perfect for whiling away a chilled hour or two; don’t miss the chance to jump aboard Ollie The Golf Buggy for an up-close and personal look at the vineyards. Wright isn’t known as ‘The Queen Of Fiano’ for nothing and her Fiano is fresh, aromatic and crisp. Their fabulous olive oil is also worth space in your case.

Chalk Hill Wines
56 Field Street
You can easily spend the whole day at Chalk Hill, a shining example of McLaren Vale’s community spirit. It’s home to the Chalk Hill Collective, made up of Chalk Hill Wines, gin distillery Never Never Distilling Co and Cucina Di Strada, which offers casual Italian street-food dining. The views from the cellar door’s enormous picture windows stretch are simply stunning, and there’s lots of space to relax and kick back before or after your tasting. Their Friday Twilights are the perfect way to finish the working week: a gorgeous wine or crisp gin and tonic with a little snack from Cucina Di Strada? Count us in. Chalk Hill’s wines focus on Italian varietals with stunning Shiraz, Nebbiolo and Barbera on taste. But don’t neglect their whites: the Grüner Veltliner  is a particular delight. 

Stay, eat, do

From Adelaide, it’s perfectly possible to get to McLaren Vale and back in a day, but why not make a weekend of it? There’s a huge variety of accommodation to explore and enjoy, from boutique B&Bs to rustic cabins. For understated indulgence though, it’s hard to beat the Beresford Luxury Suites. In the heart of the Beresford Estate vineyards, there are 15 suites in total, all boasting inside and outside living spaces. If you’re feeling particularly boujee, upgrade to one of six Grand Reserve Suites, which all come with private plunge pool, total privacy and lake-side views. 

The Salopian Inn

The Salopian Inn
Main Road
For food, The Salopian Inn has been around for almost 175 years and they’ve looked after a lot of hungry travellers and locals in that time. The eclectic menu focuses on local produce, much of it from their own garden. The steamed buns and Salopian dumplings are legends in their own lunchtimes, while regularly changing mains feature local fish and grass-fed beef and lamb. The cellar is huge, as is the gin selection, and it’s all gorgeously casual: you’re as welcome to drop by for a beer and a bun as you are to linger over the chef’s choice Feed Me menu. 

Silver Sands Beach Club
End of Norman Road, Aldinga Beach
This brilliant, laid-back beach bar immediately feels totally informal, but it’s equally clear that there’s a laser-focus on food, drink and quality behind the scenes. Sit outside and watch the sunset over Silver Sands while tucking into the likes of buttery salt and pepper squid or Coorong mullet, or simply split a pizza with a cold Coopers. That said, it would be a shame to miss out on the cellar; these guys know their wine and you’ll always find some McLaren Vale stunners on pour.  

Finally, because (apparently) you can't drink wine all the time, there are loads of cool things to do around the Vale. Start your day off right at Dawn Patrol Coffee (402 Main Road), where you can either sip your usual or experiment with some of the gorgeous roasts and blends they create in-house. Take a Deluxe Ebike Tour (absolutely no effort required) in the late avo and weave between the SUVs parked up on Silver Sands to get a real slice of Aussie beach life. 

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