The folks behind upmarket Scottish-focused Glaschu on Royal Exchange Square have defied Brexit for a luxe celebration of France (with a wee nod to Italy). The place’s smart, classic brasserie vibe (earthy leather banquettes, bistro furniture, boozy 1920s whiff) befits a shopping centre that still feels a bit special. Dining ‘outdoors’ on the terrace gives a god complex: heavens open above through giant roof windows, small humans milling about below. The truffle-sprinkled menu includes classics such as moules, baked camembert, onion soup, roast poussin, and an enjoyable beef bourguignon. French producers take up most of the enticing wine and fizz offerings, while the international cocktail list features aperitif Lillet.