Hyndland’s dining scene continues to expand and entice with the arrival of this Italian bar-diner. Nostrana isn’t entirely new, rather an amalgamation and total transformation of two former businesses, close to the well-heeled neighbourhood’s tennis club. Owner Marco Stevenson is a well-kent face to locals who’ve been enjoying his takeaway, Pizza Magic, since 1989 and bobbing into Tabak, his adjacent newsagent, for 15 years. The arrival of Sainsbury’s round the corner was the death knell for the shop, thus plans for this new restaurant were born. Nostrana is in a top location, maximised by a thoughtful layout featuring plenty of outdoor seating, through huge fold-back doors, in the wee square that overlooks Old Station Park. Inside it’s all big windows (framing Hyndland’s hoi polloi), exposed brickwork, and twinkling glasses overhanging the prominent bar that signals Nostrana’s welcome to just-drinkers or those grabbing a quick slice and a vino, and maybe something for the dog (welcome in the alfresco area). Pizza Magic was renowned, hauling in customers from way wider than your average take-out. And the pizzas here are a step-up from there. Two varieties, Neapolitan and Nostrana, cover a dozen off-the-peg choices (bespoke is also available from a long list of toppings). The Naples option comes personal, plated and adhering to the characteristics: fresh, simple and soft with a bubbly crispy crust. The more rough-shaped and rustic Nostrana style comes on a board, designed for sharing (once you get to grips with the scissors you’re given). A handful of pasta options and sides bolster the offerings, as does a brunch menu (served daily 11am–4pm), but the undoubted star headliner is pizza. Quality ingredients throughout, such as the fior di latte cheese, and clear care over fundamentals such as flour types help the pizzas hit the heights of some of the best in town.