Zhima comes from the folks behind Topolabamba and Chaakoo in Glasgow and Edinburgh, who’ve transformed the ornate city centre spot vacated by Prezzo. There is mystery here, disorientation even, as dark wood blends with mirrors and large decorative screens, partially obscuring segregated dining sections across the two floors. And there is gold, enough to conjure Midas: sit on gold chairs, touch gold cutlery, look at gold artworks and mask displays. Staff in black or suits swish between tables and blingy (gold) bar that’s dishing out satisfying cocktails. The house margarita is clever with spicy Sichuan seasoning and nutty notes from sesame-washed reposado. Zhima’s beer on tap, Hong Ba, is made in Glasgow; an okay stand-in for unavailable Tsingtao. Cantonese and Beijing cuisines are well repesented in sesame toast, Peking duck, sweet and sour dishes, etc. Bolder Sichuan cuisine is here in kung pao dishes and tender ribs packing a wee punch. The Hunan region is tasted in Qianlong wan ji: rice with minced chicken in spicy(ish) sauce, crispy garlic slices adding lovely pungent crackles. Milder Huaiyang food is found, too, with enjoyable lion’s head meatballs: light pork and chicken balls, fragrant with ginger and fennel, in satay sauce. Then Japan gets a nod with oyster mushroom tempura; a bit batter-heavy and needing dipping sauce. Mongolia, too, pops up with moreish wok-fried tender beef in sweet soy sauce. There are hints of Malaysia, and of Indonesia. It starts to feel a tad scattershot; crowdpleasing choice somewhat trumping further delves into China’s fascinating cuisines.