Long-time Edinburgh restaurateur Stuart McCluskey understands casual dining, and Little Capo is very definitely aiming for feel-good drop-by neighbourhood vibes in a New Town street that’s big on architectural charm but a little short on heart and soul. It’s a good-looking spot, with achingly cool staff (the workwear jackets scream New Town hipster). But the warmth of the welcome is genuine, the bar stools really are held for walk-ins, and a solo glass of wine and bowl of beef shin ragù at the bar seems like a truly excellent prospect. The menu is kept short, with a few snacks and charcuterie alongside four or so mains, at least two of which are veg based: grilled aubergine with caponata is rustic and punchy, and there’s always a hearty pasta on offer too. Little Capo feels like a restaurant for our times: casual enough to drop by on a Wednesday, smart enough to dress up for on a Friday night, and delicious enough for any time.