Lothian Road’s transformation — from crapulent crawl destination to craft beer central — continues, with Edinburgh-based brewer Innis & Gunn’s first foray into brew-pubbing sitting neatly between The Red Squirrel and The Hanging Bat, in more ways than one.

With the Bat largely geared towards to the enthusiast, the Beer Kitchen offers an easier introduction into the world of the holy hop, but in more salubrious surroundings than its scuirine neighbour down the road, a move that should ensure popularity with financial district natives. Previously a cabaret bar of dubious virtues, the space has been refurbished in a comfortably familiar industrial-lux chic, complete with raised restaurant area and an eye-catching city mural. Innis & Gunn products, including the easy-drinking unpasteurised Lager Beer, share the stage with brews from near and far, with excellent beverages from Pilot and six°north available alongside offerings from Norway’s Lervig and North America’s Lagunitas.

Well-priced and well-cooked meat cuts, such as brisket and pork belly, come lightly dressed in beer-based sauces. Darn good chips are a recommended accompaniment, although an extra jug of those moreish fixings to dip them in wouldn’t go amiss.