In recent years, Inverurie-based bakers JG Ross have dared to meddle with one of the North East’s most iconic local foods, the buttery – or rowie as it’s more affectionately known in Aberdeenshire.

A staple of the North East diet since the 1800s, when it provided long-lasting sustenance and nourishment to fishermen out on the North Sea, the buttery has a flaky texture similar to a flattened, dense croissant. Traditionally made with lard, flour, salt and yeast – though no butter, it can be eaten as a savoury or sweet snack. The buttery’s popularity speaks for itself, with many local bakeries making their own version and JG Ross alone baking over 60,000 a week.

Challenged to give the buttery a healthy makeover as part of a recent ‘Banffshire Breakfast’ initiative, Ross created a new version using locally milled oats, with special attention given to the nutritional value of the other ingredients: namely 25% less salt and 15% less fat than a regular buttery.