‘Where beauty meats the beast’ is the strap-line for brash new arrival Steak, archly attached to publicity shots of ladies, puckering their lips in readiness under dangling raw t-bones – although ‘where beauties eat the beast’ might be just as apt.

Steak is one of a new wave of steakhouses, influenced by the likes of London’s much-lauded Hawksmoor, which have debuted on the Edinburgh scene. From the team responsible for 12 Picardy Place, it’s aiming for hi-octane glamour that would be more at home in the Meatpacking district in New York City than at the top of Leith Walk.

If that sounds like a complaint, it’s not, Edinburgh could do with a dose of said glamour and ambition and Steak may be the one to deliver it. This grand former nightclub has been cleverly divided by rope structures, which, along with butch banqueting tables, low lighting and a ton of candles, create much aesthetic drama.

Pumping beats are turned up to eleven as are the flavours of the food. In fact, with all this style, you could be forgiven for wondering if there would be any substance. Fortunately there is and Jason Wright (previously of Ondine) has created a zeitgeisty menu where, alongside the beef, you can expect roast cockerel, truffled macaroni, langoustine cocktail and more.

Provenance and butchery of the beef are well considered: 35-day hung cuts are offered on and off the bone from three breeds, Scottish Aberdeen Angus, Black Isle and Limousin. A Black Isle rib-eye has rich flavour and toothsome texture while accompanying triple-cooked dripping chips are a super-deluxe interpretation of McDonald’s fries.

Seasoning and char-grilling are at the aggressive end of the spectrum, perhaps at the cost of more natural flavours, but then subtlety is not what this joint is about. Butter shrimp Caesar salad is punchy and delicious, as is a starter of maple-cured salmon with drop scones.

Food as theatre is definitely a theme and certain dishes, like crêpe suzette, are prepared tableside. With all its hullabaloo, one thing Steak does not do is make for a calm and relaxing evening but if you are after late-night bovine thrills with serious sourcing, then it certainly brings something unique and exciting to Edinburgh’s table.

+ All dressed up and something to show
– The urge for a quiet, darkened room afterwards

Steak
12 Picardy Place, Edinburgh EH1 3JT
0131 557 0952, steakedinburgh.com
Wed–Thu 5pm–midnight, Fri 5pm–2am, Sat 11am–2am, Sun 11am–6pm. Closed Mon/Tue.
Ave. price two course meal: £25 (lunch / dinner)