After keeping Southsiders happy for decades at its Paisley Road West original, Punjabi have brought their quality North Indian cuisine to Charing Cross. The new restaurant is in a rather tricky spot, teetering on the edge of the M8, where various pubs have come and gone recently – although being adjacent to ale-house Bon Accord is a huge plus. Inside are remnants of past lives with the fraternal co-owners retaining the old pub’s dark wood bar (well stocked, with Cobra on tap) and gent’s club-style seating while adding warm colours and decorative flourishes creating a comfortable setting, bolstered by friendly, helpful service.

To start there are various pakora – deliciously done, light and plump – and pooris, tandoori snacks and specialities such as the impressive malai chicken, marinated in mild spices, mustard and coconut.

The main dishes – split into popular, tandoori and specials – can be prepared with various meats, fish or vegetables, and include bhoona, biryani, dansak, karahi and a nicely spiced rogan josh. Meat on the bone is recommended as the lamb mulaidhar is a triumphant blend of lean succulent lamb in a rich spinach sauce enlivened with lime, coriander and chunky chilli pieces.

Prices are favourably comparable with the numerous curryhouses nearby and there are great value three-course lunch and pre-theatre deals.

Punjabi Charing Cross, 157–159 North Street, City Centre, G3 7DA. 0141 221 3926

Mon–Wed & Sat/Sun 4.30pm–midnight; Thu/Fri noon–2.30pm, 4.30pm–midnight.
Ave. price two-course meal: £5.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)