Dean Banks’ second Edinburgh restaurant (he also owns Haar in St Andrews) is a smart move away from the formal fine dining he offers across the road at The Pompadour into something altogether more neighbourhood. Formerly L’Escargot Blanc, the space still feels familiar but has scrubbed up braw; soothing blues, plenty of plants and a cleaned-up bar opens up the casual ground floor, while upstairs feels more like a traditional restaurant (the same menu is served in both).   

A back bar dedicated to Scottish producers means your favourite pour may be missing from the focused cocktail list, but the sparky staff are full of recommendations and enthusiasm for their plans to plug any gaps, like making their own vermouths. The menu is mostly based around small plates, and oysters are a great place to start. They come topped with a drizzle of cucumber and jalapeño, creating a long, sweet finish rather than the traditional Tabasco burn. It’s genius, though the sensational trout pastrami and beautifully spiced North Sea cod with Goan curry sauce (just a hint of heat and acidity balancing the sweet flesh) are worthy followers.  

Balance is an important word here, and Banks isn’t afraid to play with flavour and texture. While sometimes there’s a lot of richness (brown butter threatens to overwhelm the delicacy of the lobster it coats), when it’s good it’s stunning: the play of crispbread against soft trout, the contrast of creaminess against smoke. He doesn’t hide behind carbs and there’s a bravery around what he chooses to put onto each (very pretty) plate. Waiting staff are excellent at controlling the flow of dishes too, heading off at the pass a common complaint with small plate dining. That means there’s no excuse not to savour every bite in a celebration of the sea at every level. 

17 Queensferry Street, Edinburgh, dulse.co.uk