Like all the best traditions, it was meant to be a one-off. ‘But now I can’t shake it!’ laughs Dougie Bell, owner of Lupe Pintos Deli and curator/progenitor of its annual Chilli Cook-Off, where ten venues within walking distance of his shops (in Glasgow’s West End and Fountainbridge in Edinburgh) must prepare a chilli and be graded on taste, creativity and presentation by hordes of punters wearing wrestling masks. 

The cook-offs will be the first since 2019, and Bell has tapped into that excitement with this year’s theme, Hellzapoppin’, named after the 1941 film and the idea that, after the horrors of hell, something pops and the best parties are to be had.

Bell opened his Edinburgh shop 31 years ago and is in no small way responsible for the increased awareness of artisan Mexican and Spanish ingredients in the city. The store stocks over 150 hot sauces ‘at last count’, says Bell, while their over-the-counter chorizo is an utterly superior breed from those found in supermarkets and, for long enough, it was pretty much the only place punters could get 100% agave tequila in the city. 

Lupe’s is both a treasure trove and an asset to the food and drink scene. And with shops in both Edinburgh and Glasgow, no one’s getting neglected. ‘It was actually a toin coss at first,’ he confesses about initially opening in Edinburgh. ‘I’ve got ties to both cities . . . it was when we realised how many folk from Glasgow were coming through to buy stuff, it kind of made sense to open a second shop.’

This is all before online shopping changed the game for so many independents. But Lupe’s is happy where it is, aware that going down that route would result in a ‘shop full of stock everywhere and orders needing fulfilled’. Instead, they’ve focused on discerning sourcing and product knowledge. The in-store experience is massive. You can also pick up copies of any of the various cookbooks Bell has written and, at this time of year, Cook-Off artwork and t-shirts from illustrator Vincent Bell (Dougie’s son).

So what’s new for this year’s competition? ‘We’ve finally got [burger restaurant] El Perro Negro in Glasgow. Nick [Watkins] is  a regular in the shop and knows his chillis so that should be interesting, and [wine bar] Brett have got a great reputation. They’re the closest site to the deli, so I’m selfishly biased there! In Edinburgh, there’s an Indian restaurant joining us and I’m intrigued by the boonha chilli they’ve been working on.’ Even in a year of triumphant returns, this one feels particularly delightful.

Lupe Pintos’ Hellzapoppin’ Chilli Cook-Off, 313 Great Western Road, Glasgow, Saturday 1 October; 24 Leven Street, Edinburgh, Saturday 8 October.