On a shopping parade close to Hillfoot Station in Bearsden, this Italian restaurant comes courtesy of the husband-and-wife owners of Glasgow’s Loveable Rogue bars (one West End, one East End, both well received). Fans of previous incarnation Raffaelle’s will find little here to deter them, with the new operation feeling more polite takeover than fresh-slate overhaul.

The interior remains intact; contemporary, lively, with statement walls and peppered by decorative fittings. Half the downstairs is a well-stocked bar and stool area, suited to popping in for a vino from the all-Italian list or a more globally inspired cocktail. A mezzanine bumps up the covers, as do alfresco tables, albeit alongside the fairly unwelcoming Milngavie Road.

Many staff from the previous restaurant have returned, and for new employees the compact all-day menu will be a breeze to memorise. Snacks and starters include nduja hummus with flatbread topped with nutty garlic shards, and a plate of quality salami (fennelly finocchiona and flattened Roman spinata). From a half-dozen pastas, spaghetti with punchy pesto is strikingly presented with a meringue-like topping of creamy burrata and pecorino shavings.

The pizzas are probably the stars here, turning heads as they pass, with their puffed-up crusts and gooey fior di latte cheese. A handful of topping options include vibrant San Marzano tomato and pesto, and uber-rich gorgonzola, mushroom and garlic, drizzled with truffle oil. The trio of mains includes breadcrumbed cutlet pollo alla Milanese, needing some company from an additional side salad or the enjoyable if diminutive strati di patate: layered potato with anchovy and parmesan topping. 

151–155 Milngavie Road, Glasgow, oimamma.com