For the hospitality industry, there’s been no shortage of pessimism to go round in recent times. Many outlets have struggled to meet increasing costs, while trying not to simply pass them on to customers who have less expendable income. And yet, in this same period, Glasgow was garlanded by not one but two Michelin stars, three new seafood restaurants opened there, and more cocktail bars arrived than the city has had for ages, The bling, it would appear, is back.

^{Food being prepared at Banca Di Roma}

And now the grand old RBS building in Royal Exchange Square (the old Borders/Zizzi) has a new resident, and they’ve spared no expense in their fitout. Banca di Roma is a spectacular 180-cover affair spanning two levels with all manner of pomp to make it an ‘event’ destination. Even when it was Zizzi, there was something cinematic about climbing the grandiose stone stairs just to enter. And now, a cocktail bar and balcony look down on the main space, the kitchen is in full view, and a chiller cabinet of big-boy steak sits to the side, while copies of famous Italian artworks (we’re talking high Renaissance) weigh down the walls. Oh, and there’s a big tree inside too, so it’s showy in all sorts of ways. 

At the helm are the three Cozzolino brothers, who worked under Calabrian chef Francesco Mazzei at his Savile Row restaurant Sartoria. Mazzei himself was at the lavish opening, where DJ Fat Tony provided the tunes and a tasting menu gave a glimpse into what the restaurant plans for Glasgow. Excellent quality Italian ingredients should always shine, and they look like they will, with rich stuffed pasta, burrata, and battuta di manzo (similar to steak tartare) all served at the event. One emphasis is on the powerful, vibrant flavours of southern Italy, another is on the importance of absolute crowd-pleasers like Highland wagyu beef lasagne or nduja-crushed potatoes. 

A few hundred metres along the road, 1802 At Hutchesons Hall (from the same stable as Tabac and The Devil Of Brooklyn) will soon be getting in on the act. Currently expected to open mid-April, it’s a magnificent piece of A-listed 19th-century architecture, all pillars, statues and faded glory (originally built as a hospital). According to general manager Alexander Martin, that was the project’s starting point. ‘You’ve got to respect the history,’ he insists. ‘So in our upstairs restaurant we’ll be doing modern dining trends (small plates, bold combinations) but with a sense of occasion in this fantastic dining space in a listed building.’

At street level, there will be a martini and aperitivi lounge, demonstrating the mixologist pedigree of the team’s other venues. But is Glasgow verging on having too many fancy bars these days? ‘I really don’t think so,’ argues Martin. ‘I honestly think that having more good-quality cocktail bars is an excellent thing for an area.’ It’s a fair point. The whole scene becomes energised as standards are raised plus the sheer scale of both these new ventures intrigues and excites. Glasgow just got a bit more gilded . . .

Banca di Roma, 31 Royal Exchange Square, Glasgow, bancadiroma.co.uk; 1802 At Hutchesons Hall, 158 Ingram Street, Glasgow.