The Finnieston venues which hit that sweet spot of cool, accessible, a bit exciting and not wildly pricey, really feel like they keep ‘the strip’ ticking over. A new addition to that list is local favourite Ramen Dayo which, having firmly ensconced itself over in Ashton Lane, has now taken on the old Alchemilla site on this side of the West End.

And it’s very stylishly done; all quirky Japanese street signs and decals, lots of lanterns and a neon orange glow throughout. As well as regular tables, there’s space for another 15 or so people on stools at the window or the bar. Part of creating broad appeal is the ability to actually get enough folk into your restaurant; Ramen Dayo looks the part and it’s kitted out to pack them in. 

Let’s start with their tonkotsu, the best-known ramen dish, the one made with pork bones over a rolling boil with sliced pork belly. It hits all the spots it’s meant to: glossy to look at, silky in the mouth, comfortingly meaty and delicately salty, with noodles ever-so-slightly chewy. 

Now, it’s not unreasonable to have a ramen bar do one or two types of broth. Here, the variety is striking. Shiitake X Porcini, spiked with a reduction of dried mushrooms and burnt garlic, leaves a ferocious whack of savoury on the nose and tongue like some wild experiment in how umami can you go. Tantanmen is defined by a clean hit of sesame, and with the TVP (textured vegetable protein) option goes a remarkable way to achieving the rich depth we associate with meat-based ramen dishes. The use of miso (in the Miso Black) and soy (in the marinaded eggs) are other striking executions of familiar flavours that both meat and vegetarian diets will appreciate.

Sides aren’t quite as exciting, but there are solid riffs on fried nibbles: chicken karaage, gyoza, pumpkin korokke (croquettes), takoyaki (octopus) with Kewpie mayo and spicy dip on the side. You know the drill. The broths, however, are excellent across the board. Ramen Dayo makes a lot of sense in its second home.

1126 Argyle Street, Glasgow, ramendayo.com