Restaurant openings in Glasgow rarely get the razzamatazz employed by this Italian newcomer, from its extended trailing to flashy opening bash. That it’s in a glitzy former banking hall in the city’s blingiest square is fitting for an operation that promises affordable luxury.

Beneath the impressively decorative domed ceiling, the luxe trappings are present: crisp white tablecloths, embroidered napkins, staff slicking around in aprons or smart suits. Helming in the open kitchen are the Cozzolino brothers (Antonio, Pasquale and Simone), looking to bring some family flavours from their upbringing on a tomato farm near Naples. The trio also have plenty of hands-on kitchen experience from London’s Sartoria, run by Francesco Mazzei.

Chunky leather-bound drinks menus include a hefty wine list breaking down Italy into regions, and a cocktail selection leaning towards Spritzes and Negronis, arguably Italy’s two greatest concoctions. The Smoked Negroni is a real winner, arriving theatrically under a smoke-filled cloche.

Starters are mainly either deep-fried or of the raw variety, with tartares joining enjoyable calamari fritti and cauliflower cheese croquettes. Pizza here is padellino style, cooked in small round pans, so it’s thicker, airier and crisper than the Neapolitan version we (and presumably the brothers) are more familiar with.

From the fish and meat offerings cooked up in a Pira oven (an enclosed charcoal grill), whole baby chicken with salsa verde comes quartered, falling off the bone with its crisp, salty, smoky skin stealing the show. More theatrics end the meal, with the mousse-filled gold bullion bar arriving in a wee treasure chest. 

Banca di Roma, 31 Royal Exchange Square, Glasgow