Beginning with a guided meditation, FOOD is an episodic study of the human relationship to consumption. Through a series of scenes, from a comic waiter routine to a long-form tabletop creation of an industrial landscape, creator and performer Geoff Sobelle does not offer any moral commentary, but simply presents the set pieces which allude to different themes. The consequences for the environment, human greed, development of agriculture, modern global economy, preparation (and expectation) of restaurant meals: all of these are suggested without drawing any clear conclusions.

Sobelle is a confident performer, able to hold attention and guide the audience into absurdist territory. At times, there is a lack of clarity or apparent structure to the episodes. When he devours large quantities of food or crawls across the table to unearth hidden buildings, it’s the strength of his presence that holds this work together. Some of the effort is handed to audience members who read from prepared scripts: this interaction is not always fluid, slowing the pace.

This production is not afraid to be difficult or obscure. In fact, it seems to delight in defying audience expectations. However, FOOD’s final scene is the slow evolution of a modern cityscape from its origins as an empty plain where buffalo roamed. Here, the show manages to describe the growth and impact of human civilisation, from agriculture onwards; the slowly fading light as machines appear and buildings shape a new terrain provides a quiet yet evocative finale. 

Geoff Sobelle: FOOD, The Studio, until 27 August, times vary. An Afternoon With Geoff Sobelle, The Hub, Thursday 10 August.