It’s easy to spot Usta with its eye-catching array of hanging baskets, creating a riot of colours and cascades of foliage down its shopfront. Combined with similar treatment for sister venue Meze Meze next door, it’s an impressive sight. Inside there’s masses of rustic brickwork, lightened with plenty of knick-knacks dotted around, including a large Islamic tile wall feature, reflecting the colourfully patterned flooring.

Billed as Mediterranean cuisine, there’s a heavy Turkish bent to the menu, with lesser sprinklings of Greece, Morocco and Iran. Then there are the burgers, with fillings where anything pretty much goes. A proper charcoal grill and oven oversees it all. Starters include excellent mushrooms, filled with cheese and pine nuts, grilled and submerged into a tomatoey iskender sauce. Succulent chicken wings dunked into chilli sauce are equally enjoyable.

Usta makes much of being the home of the shish burger: justifiably so. Large patties are skewered shish-style and cooked over coals, packing in the juices and adding lots of smoky notes. They’re at the pricey end of the burger scale, but they are huge, delicious and compelling, with a rugged brioche bun holding it all together. A half-dozen options riff on movies; the memorable Midnight Express (perhaps not Turkey’s best advert) featuring slices of sausage, grilled aubergine and feta.

Moussaka, ribs, shanks and tagines appear as mains, but the grill’s the star here, delivering fish, lamb and chicken dishes, plus kofte patlican kebab (a plateful of tasty foot-long kofta with grilled aubergine and asparagus, roasted veggies and mashed potato). Ekmek also abounds, a chunky, airy flatbread which is satisfyingly crisp on the outside. Benchmark baklava is dense, chewy, flaky goodness, while a potent Iranian ice-cream is heady with floral rose and saffron, topped with pistachio nuts. 

1024 Argyle Street, Finnieston, Glasgow