Edinburgh’s renowned pizza specialists Civerinos have brought their New York-slice operation to Finnieston. Setting up close to Kelvingrove Park’s outdoor skatepark is a good fit for Civs’ embrace of US skater-punk-rap culture, with its posters of Thrasher mag and Public Enemy on the walls, and plenty of graffiti (‘Death Before Domino’s’). Curved plywood (redolent of skateparks) sweeps around the place, wee rails on top. It’s a fun setting, where a bit of wear will help grunge it up and help avoid the faint whiff of Saturday-morning kids’ shows, an air bolstered by children and dogs milling about.

The vibe is casual: slices on paper plates, sides in plastic baskets. Staff bustle in baggy branded clothing between dining area and kitchen side, where multiple ovens churn out the goods, including through a takeaway street hatch. If you come here, you’re coming for pizza. New York-style dominates (thin, foldable, chewy, big crispy crust, very satisfying). There’s nothing too out-there (margherita, pepperoni, barbecue chicken) with veggies and vegans welcomed.

All pizzas are 14 or 20 inch and about half come in generous slices which, with some sides action, will content most appetites. Detroit deep-dish pies feature too: Sausage Squared is an airy solid slab, a punchy aromatic treat, potent with rosemary, satisfying with Italian sausage and potato slices. Sides are fried and frivolous. A giant mozzarella stick is fun for sharing. Arancini feature, as do their Scottish cousins, mac and cheese bites (chunky balls of gooey pasta, breadcrumbed and deep-fried), while crust bites are serious salty, garlicky whacks.

Civerinos, 9–13 Radnor Street, Glasgow.