Like many Italian cities, Palermo’s narrow streets and intricate buildings are things of great beauty; but look a bit closer and you’ll start to notice curious distinctions and more than a few cracks. Residential palatial buildings with archways and giant stairwells supported with perilous scaffolding, partially demolished buildings with no sign of revival and slowly decaying ancient fountains and statues all contribute to the chaotic charm of the place. As for the people, Sicilians are famously warm, proud and scrappy. In part because their ancestors withstood countless invasions by the Greeks, Romans, Normans, Arabs, Byzantines and Spaniards, who all had their time moulding and influencing this island. A perfect manifestation of these overlapping cultures can be seen in both Palermo’s cuisine and religious buildings, which are first on my sightseeing list. 

Palermo’s old town is compact and walkable. From Piazza Bellini, head to Capella Palatina or Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio to see examples of colourful Byzantine mosaics used in Catholic churches. On the opposite side of the square, a large staircase leads you into the Santa Catarina monastery where you can freely roam its many gorgeous floors and terraces. The main attraction here though is a dolceria churning out a range of traditional pastries, including huge cannoli stuffed to bursting with fresh ricotta. After picking up your treats and an espresso, head out to the central courtyard where you can sit surrounded by blue mosaic tiles and lemon trees as you enter sugar and caffeine-induced euphoria.

Other local delicacies include the humble arancini, pasta alla norma and pizza alla brontese (a topping of pistachio pesto, buffalo mozzarella and mortadella ham). Over lunchtime, focaccerias serve up traditional pani ca' meusa, Palermo’s street-food answer to a roast beef sandwich. Offcuts of beef (mainly spleen) are boiled and packed into a roll with grated ricotta and a squeeze of fresh lemon. 

Effortlessly cool wine and cocktail bars are plentiful, each one trying to out-do their neighbour in customer service and ambience. Head along Via Alessandro Paternostro for a great selection, making stops at Dal Barone, Goccio and OJDA. At around 10pm, the streets around here will begin to fill with locals, students and tourists alike as they spill out onto the shiny stone pavements with drinks in hand. Festivities continue until around 3am even on weekdays. 

While there’s plenty to eat, drink and explore in the city centre, it would be an oversight to not spend some time on a beach (this is the Mediterranean's largest island after all). Palermo’s waterfront is great for watching sunsets, but take a short bus ride north to Mondello for a scenic sea swim to round off your trip. 

Explore Sicily's official site.