Given the glittering accolades bestowed on The Kinneuchar Inn since James Ferguson and Alethea Palmer arrived here, you’d be forgiven for thinking it might be another blingy, fine-dining showboat with overly tweaked, microscopic portions. Mercifully, it’s none of the above. This picture-postcard 17th-century hostelry has inherent style (think earthy classic tones) and an easy-going vibe. There’s a light-filled main dining room and a cosy bar, where dogs are most welcome. Outside, dine in the pretty courtyard or relax in the meadow garden, perhaps with a half-dozen Cumbrae oysters and a glass of something tip-top from the thoughtfully curated wine list. 

The key to Kinneuchar’s deserved success is two-fold: the kitchen’s impeccable handling of fantastic produce (much of it from neighbouring Balcaskie Estate and other local suppliers) and an ability to make diners feel like they’re guests-of-honour at the best dinner party. A fork-to-field philosophy is evident in each lovingly crafted dish. Scoop up a glistening, golden dollop of fava bean, chilli and mint dip with fluffy, freshly baked flatbread, or savour the sweet hit of roast beetroot salad, studded with walnuts and a snowfall of barrel-aged feta. Cypriot flavours sing in lamb and pork sheftalia, with crunchy red kalibos cabbage and cooling tzatziki nicely cutting through the meatiness. Confit duck leg yields to the touch, paired with crunchy French beans in a mustardy sauce. Desserts are no afterthought either: fig and Marsala ice-cream is subtle and sophisticated. No faff, no fuss; this place has heart and soul stamped right through it. 

The Kinneuchar Inn, 9–11 Main Street, Kilconquhar; average price for two courses £38.