Marchmont is finally picking up dining-out momentum, and Nàdair is the newest addition to the area. Dinner is a daily five-course set menu, with shorter lunchtime options. The small restaurant is calm and minimal, with Scandi sage tiles and sprays of dried flowers. In the kitchen are Sarah Baldry and Alan Keery, both ex-Wedgwood and keen to make their mark. There’s a fondness for foraged ingredients: the menu is peppered with forest and shoreline finds, like sea truffle, chanterelle, pine needle and sea buckthorn. Wooden cutlery and tree-slice placemats add an earthy, foresty feel and the name’s a clue too: ‘nàdair’ is Gaelic for nature. 

The food starts strong, with wedges of salty roast Jerusalem artichoke dipped into whipped smoked crowdie and peppery chive oil. There’s wheaten bread too, soft and nutty with chanterelle butter and (whisper it) a welcome break from sourdough. Gorgeous little purple and white roast potatoes hide under a buckwheat cracker, with sprigs of sea truffleweed. A beef, turnip and black garlic dish is hearty and wintery; the veggie alternative of roast baby leeks with whey, pickled alexanders and toasted hazelnut delights too. Isle Of Mull beignets are glorious, hot and oozing, buried underneath a flurry of grated parmesan and a drizzle of hot honey. 

An Orkney scallop would benefit from moments less on the grill but remains plump and pleasing in its pool of buttermilk; brioche crumb and seaweed add interesting texture but not much else, though the experimental approach is to be applauded. The palate is refreshed with chamomile sorbet, before brown butter shortbread with quince ice-cream and pine needle sauce. Throughout, paired drinks flow nicely from a Normandy cider to organic and low-intervention wines from across Europe. This is imaginative and considered cooking, and a very enjoyable edible journey through the local larder. 

Nàdair, 15 Roseneath Street, Edinburgh; average price for five-course set menu £65; main picture: AwAyeMedia.