Neighbourhood hang-out The Bonnington has a new lease of life in the capable hands of Carlo Carozzi, who also runs The Peruvian at Edinburgh Street Food. South American influences start strong on the cocktail menu: a Pisco Sour Of Chicha includes pisco and chicha morada, a purple corn juice. Whipped up into an icy fresh sour, the herbal notes of the pisco sing. 

The Peruvian flavours haven’t quite made it to the bar menu yet (although Carozzi says more will be added over time), and fried egg, haggis, HP sauce and toast definitely feels more Leith than Lima. However, this is still cracking pub food. A generous dish of coronation fried cauliflower is crisp and moreish, with a creamy curried sauce. Breaded monkfish cheeks are chunky, full of flavour and served with homemade tartare sauce. A large plate of oyster mushrooms with black garlic has smoky savoury depth, served with beautifully sweet slow-roasted onions and a warm, fresh flatbread. A cheesesteak delivers the goods, stacked high with tender beef and cheese, plus excellent chips. Puds are proper too: top marks for bramley apples and candied walnuts buried under a soft, burnished meringue.

There’s clearly a savvy desire to keep the regulars on side, but it would be fun to share tequeños, lomo saltado or cassava fries in this cheery pub setting. That aside, the makeover has nicely zhuzhed up the space in warm emerald greens. Service is friendly and fun, the pints crisp and cold, and the food is great quality and brilliant value.

The Bonnington, 284 Bonnington Road, Edinburgh; average price for two courses £22.