From the folks behind Michelin star-holder Cail Bruich and the excellent Brett comes The Clarence (replacing their Shucks oyster spot in Hyndland). It’s billed as dining room and pub, the pub bit being the open ground-floor bar area complete with stools and banquettes. The dining area, smart and dark-toned, is raised up on a mezzanine. For a tenement, it all makes for a lofty, airy feel, with booths and nooks offering privacy.

There’s a nostalgic bent to the menu of old-school classics such as prawn cocktail, kyivs and suet puds, along with grilled steaks and chops with sauce options. From the bar snacks menu, spicy tuna tartare is stupendous, with captivating layers of flavour and texture: small soft tuna chunks, crisp potato, with little pops of herring caviar lingering long. It’s too good, seriously dulling the subsequent coronation chicken croquettes.

Sole grenobloise shows off some solid fish cookery, served with tiny shrimp, lemon and capers in a rich brown-butter sauce. Lovely, refined and really well executed (missing the croutons, though). The cute little suet pudding is meaty with beef cheek and short rib, notched up a level with deep bone-marrow gravy. The requisite sides include velvety potato purée, served in a little iron pan, and moreish peas with bacon and onions. But there’s a lack of something just green and simple; on an unashamedly rich menu, a wee breather would be nice.

The rum baba involves an element of high-wire DIY, with a healthy shot of spirit served on the side for pouring over the little glazed sponge. Not enough rum and it could be a dull, dry affair (more Chantilly cream would help here); too much rum and it’s overpowering. Perhaps this element would be best left to the chefs: they’ve got the skills, after all. 

The Clarence,168 Hyndland Road, Glasgow; average price for two courses £40.