Jolly Judge
7 James Court
Despite its location in the heart of the Old Town, this timber-beamed hideaway avoids feeling like a tourist trap. Those who do venture down James Court to the dinky subterranean pub will find a litany of real ales, craft beers and an impressive selection of whiskies. At its cosiest when the fire is glowing.

Nok’s Kitchen
8 Gloucester Street
It’s hard to walk past the warm glow from Nok’s Kitchen’s windows on a blustery night and not envy everyone inside. An enticing scent of lemongrass and cinnamon drifts from this 17th-century townhouse-turned-Thai restaurant, promising fragrant red curries and zesty pad thai. Low ceilings and sensitively restored features of the building’s historic bones keep things feeling intimate. Melt-in-the-mouth beef massaman is a real heart-warmer on a cold day.

Origano
236 Leith Walk
Handmade pasta and gourmet pizza are on the menu at this casual spot which radiates Italian rusticana. A stone pizza oven roars away and the mood is complemented by flickering candlelight. Start with a piled-high meat or cheese board, then dive into cannelloni stuffed to bursting and spinacio pizza topped with oozing egg.

Roseleaf
23–24 Sandport Place
Cheery neighbourhood favourite Roseleaf is the place in Leith for a slap-up brunch or a hearty pub meal: their ‘Big Yin’ full cooked breakfast is legendary. Dishes and drinks are inspired by Leith: try the Banana Flat cocktail, a vegan flat-white martini with oat milk, Kahlua, espresso and banana liqueur.

Under The Stairs 
3a Merchant Street

It’s easy to miss the entrance to this homely, shabby-chic bar, but that would be a mistake. Under The Stairs somehow manages to pull off a neighbourhood bar feel in the middle of tourist central, with good cocktails, a compact but thoughtful wine list, an interesting menu and some of the city’s friendliest staff.

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