Halfway House
24 Fleshmarket Close

One of Edinburgh’s smallest pubs is actually halfway up (or down) a particularly steep close that leads between Waverley Station and Cockburn Street. Known as a railway workers’ bar, it’s a fascinating and relatively untouched reminder of Edinburgh’s recent drinking past, and a cosy spot for a pint before the train home (if you can get a seat).

Jolly Judge
7 James Court
Despite its Royal Mile location, this timber–beamed hideaway avoids feeling like a tourist trap. Those who do venture down James Court to the dinky subterranean pub will find a litany of real ales, craft beers and an impressive selection of whiskies. At its cosiest when the fire is blazing.

Malt & Hops
45 Shore
One of the oldest pubs in the Shore area, the Malt & Hops is a no-nonsense, hardwood floor kind of establishment. Dried hops hang from the ceiling and, on sunny days, the door is left wide open. In winter, an open fire crackles in the grate. They do a pub lunch, but it’s mainly a prime spot for real ales that take some muscle to pull.

The Barony
81-85 Broughton Street
An old oak bar, a gentle coal fire in winter and a dimmer switch at just the right level create the atmosphere of a proper pub at The Barony. Dripping with charm, it’s no wonder the interior was captured in cartoon form in Sylvain Chomet’s The Illusionist. Stepping inside certainly feels like stepping into a fictional pub.

The Royal Oak
1 Infirmary Street
There’s live folk music every day at The Royal Oak and patrons are often encouraged to play along if they fancy. Taps are real ales and some craft beers and the interior is traditional, cosy and a world away from pretentious grandeur. It’s elbow-to-elbow at the weekend which is all part of the charm.

The Waverley
3-5 St Mary's Street 
It’s creaky, it’s dark and there are only three taps. The Waverley has watched every pub trend from gilded kitsch to Scandi-chic and said ‘no thanks’. If there’s not live folk music on upstairs, you’re nearly always guaranteed a seat and, don’t worry, these day there are bottled craft beers alongside the big whisky selection. 

This TipList is taken from Eat & Drink 365, our sister mag recommending the best in restaurants, bars, cafés and more across Edinburgh. Want a copy? It’s available online or across all good stockists in Scotland’s capital.