Part of the new-build side of Marriott’s AC Hotel Glasgow, Hazel’s name nods to the branch of the St Mungo legend that inspired Glasgow’s coat of arms, immortalised in the line ‘Here is the tree that never grew’. The plastic tree dominating the front dining area isn’t going to grow either, though it is eye-catching, soothing even, amid Scandi tones of light wood and sea green. Leaf motifs pepper the large windows that afford a lesser-known view of the impressive City Chambers.

The food blends crowd-pleasers and bistro favourites with plenty of modern Scottish leanings. Good-looking small plates/starters offer up predictable haggis croquettes, given some oomph from merguez. Light, crispy tempura cauliflower gets pleasantly punchy in a sweet-chilli glaze, while small so-so scallops are saved by Iberico black pudding.

Larger plates include a nicely done roast venison haunch; thick, tender slices blush pink and sit on a veritable woodland scene of blackberries, broccoli, carrots and crispy kale, with puy lentils adding earthy depth. Steaks and burgers get grilled; nothing fancy on the equipment front, but the kitchen’s use of smoked salts give the beefburger a huge hit of chargrilled headiness.

Continental desserts dominate, with panna cotta, crème brûlée and densely rich chocolate and orange tart, lightened with coffee liqueur sauce. Drinks come from behind a huge bar, offering a couple of tie-ins with local producers. It’s a hotel restaurant that wears its hotel-ness very lightly, which is only ever a good thing. 

Hazel, 65 John Street, Glasgow; main picture: Carlo Paloni.