Part of the attraction of traditional tatties is their unusual appearance. For they’re not your conventional plate of mass-market mash; we’re talking vivid colours, knobbly textures and individual histories with each forkful. As Lucy Carroll, co-founder of Carroll’s Heritage Potatoes of Northumberland and Ayrshire, says: ‘From the outside the potatoes don’t look very pretty, and some people are put off by that. But the insides are beautiful.’ Cue a niche market – and happy chefs. Try them at Urban Angel, Iggs and Creelers in Edinburgh, Kinloch Lodge on Skye, Macdonald Hotels, Roots & Fruits in Glasgow, and farmers’ markets.

Mr Little’s Yetholm Gypsy

Developed in 1899 in the Border village of Yetholm, once the Gypsy capital of the Borders, by the Little Brothers. It is unusual because it is the only potato to show red, white and blue variegated skin. It is best boiled or steamed with the skin on. The colour remains, the texture is floury and the flavour quite delicious.

Kepplestone Kidney

An unusual variety that was first bred in Scotland in 1919. When raw, the skin is blue, turning a creamy colour when cooked. The shape is long and more pointed at one end, and it is often known as ram’s horn. The texture of the flesh is floury, and the flesh is yellow. Good for baking, crisps and mash.

Shetland Black

As the name suggests, originally grown in the Shetland Isles. The initial sprouts on the seed potatoes are jet black, and the new tubers have a mottled, very dark blue/purple skin. The potatoes are on the small side in comparison with supermarket-bought produce, but they have a delicious taste and distinctive blue antioxidant ring.

Highland Burgundy

Dates back to at least 1936, when it was used to add appropriate colour to a meal for the Duke of Burgundy in the Savoy. Highland Burgundy red has a dull russet layer over a bright burgundy skin. The tubers are oval to long oval. They make excellent novelty chips, crisps and mash, though they’re a more specialist market. Nutritionists say that the antioxidants provide many health benefits.

Arran Victory

The oldest Arran still available. Arran Victory was bred in the Isle of Arran by Donald Mackelvie in 1918 and named to celebrate the end of the Great War. The vivid blue/purple skin contrasts with the bright white flesh. It is floury and good for mash. They are still regarded as the premium late-season variety.

Dunbar Rover

Bred in 1936 by Charles T Spence of Tynefield Farm, Dunbar, and very rare. Rovers are oval in shape with white skin and snowy white flesh. It may not be a perfect, shiny white modern potato, but the cooking and taste quality are excellent. The flesh is floury, and they have a pleasant, sweet flavour. Great roasted, baked and mashed.

Heritage potatoes and seed potatoes are available from:
Carroll’s Heritage Potatoes: 01890 883833, www.heritage-potatoes.co.uk
Knowes Farm: 01620 860221, www.knowesfarmshop.co.uk
Specialist Potatoes: specialistpotatoes.co.uk
Borders Organic Gardeners: www.bordersorganicgardeners.org.uk

Cate Devine is The Herald’s food writer.