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Barry Fish restaurant review: Bringing seafood to Leith Shore

Feted chef Barry Bryson knocks it out of the park with his first solo restaurant 

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Barry Fish restaurant review: Bringing seafood to Leith Shore

Known for his sell-out pop-ups and events, Barry Bryson has embarked on his first solo restaurant with Barry Fish, carving out a space that was half of Mimi’s Bakehouse (still next door, just smaller) at Leith’s Shore. He has created an intimate, relaxed room, in deep greens and cream, with wire fish sculptures by Sheila Jardine. 

A ‘low tide’ menu is served until 3pm with big plates of kedgeree and crab focaccia. Early evening diners move to ‘big snacks’, ideal with a glass of wine. Those snacks become starters when the dinner menu kicks in from 6pm. The menu is unapologetically fish-forward and full of personal touches: cocktails are named after Bryson (a slick samphire martini) and husband/business partner Robin. Everything is made in-house where possible, including the oyster vermouth and samphire bitters in said martini. 

Octopus with whipped feta and persillade

Plump Loch Fyne oysters arrive au natural, or with spiced pineapple salsa, both excellent. Sea bream ceviche with orange and fennel is fresh and zesty, and the sea trout pastrami is outstanding: marinated with treacle and coriander seeds, served with dried grapes, baby capers and aioli. Agnolotti pasta parcels of lobster and salmon have a smooth bisque-like brown butter sauce with the pleasing zip of fennel and capers. A beautifully seared fillet of hake is served with a classic creamy soubise sauce, mussels and sauteed greens. Even the endive side salad is knockout.

Decades in events and temporary kitchens have clearly given Bryson plenty of time to consider what makes a restaurant work. He’s nailed it. It’s easy-going and comfortable, the staff are excellent, and they don’t flip tables in the evening so you can settle in. Each dish is balanced and delicious, fresh and fun. Even the tunes are spot on. Welcome to Leith, Barry Fish. 

Barry Fish, 62 Shore, Edinburgh; average price for two courses £35.

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