Picturesque Stockbridge has seen a huge surge of openings, from fine-dining restaurants such as Eòrna, Avery and Moss to neighbourhood favourites Stockbridge Eating House and Sotto, plus Insta hits Lannan Bakery and Mootz General Store. So what’s behind the growth in this popular postcode, and is it sustainable?

Since Paul Gunning opened fine-dining favourite Purslane in 2011, he’s witnessed a huge change in the area. ‘It used to be a casual dining scene with pub food. Now it’s become a hotbed for all these amazing restaurants.’ Community and convenience attracts businesses to Stockbridge, reckons Glen Montgomery, sommelier and co-owner of elegant Eòrna. ‘We wanted to be in a place where there was an interested local audience,’ he says. ‘There’s a really nice diverse population: locals who’ve lived here for years, students, young families, and well-heeled professionals. The people around here are quite savvy in their support of local and artisanal independent businesses. They also like to gossip! So if you’re doing a good job, you know they’ll be talking about you and spreading the word. But if you’re not doing something well enough, word of that can spread quickly too.’ 

Chef Tomás Gormley has played a key role in the area’s new era. First came Skua, a smouldering small-plates restaurant; then Cardinal, a more grown-up tasting menu affair (on the Stockbridge/Canonmills border); finally we had artisanal knife-and-kitchen shop Messer (because all these chefs have to shop somewhere). ‘Stockbridge is great,’ Gormley says, ‘and the community of small independent businesses is incredibly welcoming.’ Many new restaurants have replaced older establishments, so is this a real shift or simply an updated directory? ‘Stockbridge has long been known as a vibrant foodie haven,’ says Adele Conn, content creator and Stockbridge resident. ‘Over the years, its restaurants and bars have continuously reinvented themselves, creating new incarnations of beloved spots.’ 

‘I don’t think it’s a new thing, as there have always been lots of restaurants here,’ notes Gormley. ‘I think the way we look at restaurants has changed and you hear about new ones opening more. Many businesses are replacing quite old ones, which shows how well a restaurant works in this part of town.’

James Clark, owner of Italian hang-out Sotto believes the density of restaurants is a strength. ‘Instinctively, people think they should be as far away from competition as possible, but it doesn’t work like that,’ he argues. ‘People congregate in areas with lots of good options, and I think Stockbridge is now seen as the neighborhood for an evening out in Edinburgh.’ 

‘I don’t think it’s a problem to have this concentration of businesses,’ adds Montgomery. ‘Each has its own identity and offering, so it depends what the patron is looking for. There’s something for everyone: a rising tide lifts all boats!’ 

Lifestyle content creator Pippa Perriam points towards a deeper shift away from the city centre. ‘The variety of independent restaurants setting up shop here is a real testament to both the area’s appeal and the strength of Edinburgh’s food scene. Clearly there’s an appetite from locals as so many places have been embraced so quickly. While there’s always a risk of saturation, I think this growth reflects a shift in how people dine out in Edinburgh. Rather than most consumer-spend being focused in the city centre, we’re seeing more neighbourhoods developing their own distinct food scenes.’

There’s clearly a confidence in the area, bolstered by plenty of community spirit: long may it last. Now, who’s hungry?

Main picture: Tina Leahy.