Chez Bernard restaurant review: Versatile and budget-friendly
Gallic delights are plentiful in this French bistro excelling in traditional fare
Gazing out over the cobbles through Chez Bernard’s floor to ceiling windows, flickering lights dance on the Water Of Leith as it flows under Bernard Street Bridge. Despite its proximity, the bridge surprisingly didn’t provide the spark for this French bistro and wine bar’s moniker. Jonathan Heredia and Isla Mosquera named it after Heredia’s French grandfather, taking inspiration for their menu from the long, lazy lunches Bernard loved.
With dark wood chairs, deep red walls, flashes of chrome and rows of neatly stacked bottles on shelves, the mood is homely, amplified by resident pup Rocky who selflessly surrenders himself for pats. Dishes lean towards sharing, though that depends on the size of your appetite on any given day. Dark, glossy French onion soup comes with a pleasingly hefty, cheesy crouton floating on top. Chunky pâté de campagne, lush goat’s cheese salad with walnuts, grapes and honey, or nicely salty ham and cheese buckwheat galette all satisfy. Pop up to the counter to curate your own cheese board, choosing from around ten options to have with oatcakes, bread and a little pot of honey for drizzling. It’s a French bistro so, naturally, there are snails in garlic and parsley butter. Not your bag? A cold seafood selection ticks off chilled prawns, oysters, smoked fish and dressed crab.
This is a versatile and budget-friendly set-up with wine front and centre: a couple of good-value choices by the carafe, 26 by the glass and around 60 by the bottle. French drops rightly take top billing, but the list roams around Europe and the New World too. For those who paid absolutely zero attention in French at school, one translation of chez is ‘at home’: with their charismatic and convivial Gallic service, it’s exactly how the team here make you feel.
Chez Bernard, 38 Shore, Edinburgh; average price £16 for two dishes.