Spoiler alert: this is not a corner shop, but a wine bar and eagerly awaited opening. There’s lots of love around town for proprietor Conor McGeady, previously of The Gannet and Fallachan, and a prime location on Old Dumbarton Road has added to the anticipation for foodies. Inside, it’s a gorgeous corner unit, with bold pops of red and green set against natural wood finishes. An accessible wine list includes nearly 40 bottles and loads by the glass.

But (second spoiler alert) this feels much more like a restaurant. If the inspiration is Catalan tapas bars, it’s certainly the fancier ones. Set up for food, every nook and cranny has been turned into a spot for two covers to squeeze in. Some are a tad tight for all your small plates, but you’ll make it work. And you should, because lots of it is very good, especially things on bread. You’ll go a long way to find better pan con tomate; yellow and red varieties, briefly fermented, are intense but still vibrant, and the bread stays crisp while loaded with oil and garlic. Elsewhere, chorizo toast sees a cider sauce doing stellar work as it soaks its way up towards grilled sausage on the surface. Clever, skillful, tasty.

Some dishes frustrate: ham croquetas are elevated to the point of being neither croqueta-shaped or jamon-y enough, and the tortilla, while perfectly fine, seems to lack a bit of air. But they do nail a mighty hunk of halibut which is juicy, flaky, sliding off the bone into a butter sauce, with mushrooms adding a savoury counterpoint. Melon and ham is a joyous throwback, all swirls of nutty serrano and juicy pops of cantaloupe. While a couple of details feel like they might still be works-in-progress, no spoilers: Old Dumbarton Road’s got a good one here. 

Corner Shop, 45 Old Dumbarton Road, Glasgow; average price £32 for a selection of tapas.