When street food stall Ho Lee Fook opened opposite Barrowlands a couple of years ago, some didn’t take the name seriously (it translates as ‘good wealth luck’ and apes a famous Hong Kong restaurant). But the excellent east Asian dishes flying out of the wee kiosk were anything but a joke. The operation, including a slick website with branded goods, quickly outgrew the takeaway stall, so now owners Lee and Johnny Chung have taken over the spot vacated by Scran around the corner. And, of course, they’ve continued the puns: this one means ‘luck taste’.

This welcome sit-in diner offers refuge from the elements for their legion of fans, with counters to sit at around the edges of the room and a big sharing table in the middle. With mostly stool seating, this isn’t really a spot for lingering, more one in which to get stuck into their enjoyable bowls of comfort-leaning food. The menu has plenty of crossovers with favourites from the stall, although it all feels a bit more grown-up, less on-the-go; for example, the chips and K-pop fries smothered in curry or bang bang sauce are gone.

But there’s still a street food vibe via super-crunchy spring rolls, fried Taiwanese pork dumplings with a satisfying meaty hit inside, or tender chicken wings in addictive sweet-salty Vietnamese-inspired caramel fish sauce. Rice and noodle bowls dominate the mains, although there aren’t distinct courses and everything comes out as and when it’s ready (which usually means super-fast). Another Ho Lee Fook fave is here, the excellent biang biang ‘noodz’ with big, thick hand-cut noodles doused in spicy Szechuan sauce. They’re served with vegetables and topper options including fried egg, tofu or Japanese chicken karaage with juicy meat inside its crispy coating. 

Fook Mei,  239 London Road, Glasgow; average price £20 for two courses.