It used to be a loch and Robert Louis Stevenson lived here as a nipper: but that’s enough fun facts. Tucked in a hollow at the foot of the New Town, Canonmills packs a surprising wealth of food and drink destinations into a small loop of streets. Start at The Bearded Baker, serving seriously good bagels and fine doughnuts (plus bread, pastries and coffee); or stroll 71 steps down Rodney Street to, well, Seventy One Steps, their casual brunch spot where you can tuck into those bagels, toasted and filled.

The Beerhive off-licence has a cracking selection of brews, wines and spirits, or grab a pew at One Canon or O’Connor’s, both decent neighbourhood pubs. Hata has porridgy goodness and granola for breakfast, with generous sourdough sandwiches at lunch, or continue downhill and squeeze into the minuscule Singapore Coffee House to dunk buttery roti canai into curry sauce. Next to the landmark Canonmills clock is The Tollhouse, an architecturally striking and classy dining joint perched right on the Water Of Leith, while WineKraft (founded by Good Brothers’ Graeme Sutherland) is just over the road and a great place to pick up sustainably produced global wines. 

Detour into Eyre Place for dark and moody Cardinal, where Michelin-starred wunderkind Tomás Gormley is kicking the tasting menu in the pants and bringing the fun back to fine dining. Or finish at the foot of Dundas Street, where The Artisan Pasta Maker delivers precisely what it promises. Take away, sit in, or (even better) tuck into their fantastic fresh pasta while supping a glass of something delicious at Bacco Wine, the cosy Italian vino experts right next door.