Ajay Kumar is becoming well-kent around Glasgow, with three operations to his name: Swadish, his two-AA rosette Indian restaurant, which opened in 2019; Home, his online meal delivery set-up; and this new spot focusing on barbecued dishes. He also competed in TV’s Great British Menu last year, doing himself proud.

Taking over the lower-ground floor previously occupied by Meat Bar in the city centre, Grilled has added little to the décor of stone, wood and coppery-brown furnishings. There’s a strong bar feel, though booths, nooks and elevated Indian food focus attention on eating rather than drinking.

The small plates and starters utilise fryer rather than grill, with golden and crispy cauliflower pakora and prawn koliwada, while hollow pani puri balls are satisfying mouthfuls of spiced potato, yoghurt and tamarind. For grill action, head to the kebab menu: all come juicy, tinged from the flames and impressively enhanced by bold accompanying sauces. Highlights include herby hariyali chicken kebab with punchy burnt tomato and lime salsa, Kandhari paneer with earthy beetroot chutney, and mushroom tikka with black garlic cream.

A handful of curries see the meat hitting the coals before being paired with sauce. Both duck leg vindaloo and lamb karahi give up deliciously tender smoky meat with sauces that have real depth; the vindaloo (not too fiery) has lovely little pops of pickled raisins. Jeera rice and masala chips are well handled, while the beautifully flaky, crispy Malabar paratha may be the best (and cheapest) item on the menu. 

Grilled By Ajay Kumar, 142 West Regent Street, Glasgow; average price £30 for two courses.