The team behind a previous restaurant here (the well-regarded Scamp) have crossed the Atlantic for inspiration to become a taco bar. With other commendable venues under their brolly, including Eighty Eight and Hooligan, the owners continue to show a knack for success.

A taqueria that leans into its drinks menu should be able to hit fiesta level, and the Friday post-work payday slot certainly delivers. There’s dimmed lighting, indiscernible music amid chatter and laughter, and servers side-stepping each other to slide plates and coupes onto high-stool tables or bar spots segregating the bustling open kitchen. Margaritas and mezcal cocktails dominate; straight-up tequila, curacao, lime and salt nicely pep mood and tastebuds, while Oaxacan Old Fashioneds seemingly omit the tequila component for a somewhat overwhelming hit of Del Maguey mezcal. Beer-wise, Spanish favourite Cruzcampo is a crisp, clean pilsner that cuts expertly through spicy food.

Several taco and tostado options hit the spot (three/four for a feed), with zingy sea bass ceviche on tostada, enveloped by Baja sauce; joyful crisp-then-soft fish taco; chicken-skin salsa giving a meaty punty-up to chicken tostada; and al pastor grilled pork perked up with pineapple salsa. Only one bum note: blue corn quesadilla with salsa negra is just too dark and gloomy to party. Barbacoa offerings nearly wrestle the show though. Tajin pork belly is a winner, its fizzy, foamy fatty layer combining with tender meat, while coffee-brined beef short-rib offers sweet, sticky, meaty goodness. In fact, forget middling soft-serve ice-cream with sugary nachos; get more barbacoa instead.

La Masa Taco Bar, 26a Renfield Street, Glasgow; average price for three tacos £12.