The folks behind upmarket Scottish-focused Glaschu on Royal Exchange Square have defied Brexit for this celebration of France (with a nod to Italy). The upper-floor restaurant’s smart brasserie vibe, with earthy leather banquettes, bistro furniture and 1920s touches, suits a shopping centre that still feels special. Dining ‘outdoors’ on the terrace gives a god complex: heavens open above through giant roof windows, small humans milling about below.

Food is casual continental dining, ticking expectations with onion soup, bourguignon, salad Niçoise, fish à la meunière, pasta and crème brûlée. Truffle is sprinkled across the menu, including in a cute baked camembert, enhanced with truffle purée, outnumbered by generous ciabatta slices (generosity is a theme, re-occurring in gigantic tuna schnitzel and two-scoop affogato). Somewhat off-piste tempura features chunky, succulent prawns in nicely light batter.

Roast poussin, with crispy skin-on ‘Pierre Koffman’ fries, is a pernickety and fiddly pleasure, prising out succulent morsels redolent with garlic and herbs. Beef bourguignon is packed with shin that melts into rich red wine sauce and mixed vegetables that hold their own, while a moreish garlic mash mops up.

Drinks are a focus here, highlighted by a large bar with loungey stool and booth area and bar snacks menu. French producers dominate enticing wine offerings, while international cocktails include an emphasis on aperitif Lillet, such as a satisfyingly potent lemon-twisted Dry Martini. Casual pop-ins for coffee and cake are welcome too, with croissants, éclairs and more pastry temptations available.

Maison By Glaschu, Second Floor, Princes Square, 42 Buchanan Street, Glasgow; average price for two courses £33.