Miller Street was already pretty solid, with pizzeria Paesano and American bar/diner Thundercat next door to each other and The Spanish Butcher’s top-end steaks a few steps away. But with the arrival of Margo (and brand-new basement sibling Sebb’s), it’s become the street for Glasgow dining.

Margo is slick. The person who takes care of your table is different from the person who delivers starters and the person who talks you through the wine list (although they all have matching cornflower-blue French-style workwear jackets). Margo is big. Well over 100 covers big. There are tables for four and booths for ten. You can sit at the counter or you can sit upstairs on the mezzanine that runs the entire length of the space. From the team behind perennially booked-out Ox And Finch, you can almost feel their satisfaction at being able to accommodate those big numbers, as well as perhaps even some walk-ins on a Friday night (can you imagine?). 

Margo is also very good. Thin shreds of cold roast lamb are zigzagged with streaks of black garlic and bright green saag reductions, intense flavours that dance from Japan to India to Sunday dinner. It’s complex yet utterly simple, a bit of the ‘modern take on a classic’ about it (this pops up often). Pork and apple sauce is reimagined with earthy notes of shiitake and chestnut mushroom and a brisk sauce of Breton cider, while a faggot (lamb again) has some North African heat sneaking out behind a piercing salsa verde: it could easily be an Ox And Finch dish. Not so the skate wing, where a punchy kumquat sauce should overpower everything, but trout roe holds the taste of the sea until mild, sweet skate itself plays out. Margo’s kitchen is the real deal, and Margo’s arrival is a big deal. 

Margo, 68 Miller Street, Glasgow; average price for three sharing plates £35.