Former bank buildings give good bones; pair that with the Insta-aesthetic of Mowgli Street Food’s founder Nisha Katona and you know this latest branch of the Mowgli empire (there are 17 across the country) is going to look great. And while this is clearly a polished opening from an experienced operator, there’s charm by the bucket-load too: the trademark swing seats, fairy lights and foliage all come together to fill a big space, split over two separate dining rooms. 

Menu descriptions lean heavily on the home-style roots of each dish and deliver on the promise of bright, clean flavours. Yes, it’s small plates, everything comes out at the kitchen’s pace and there’s not quite enough table room; but go with the flow… and also with more than one other diner to avoid crippling order envy (unless you’re the sort who can put away a portion of the treacle tamarind fries and the fenugreek fries all by yourself; in which case, all power to you). 

Dietary requirements are catered for confidently and clearly and, as in the best traditions of Indian cooking, the lack of meat in a dish like the comforting, complex and creamy holy chow (chickpea, potato and spinach curry) doesn’t even register. That said, meat-eaters won’t go wrong with the punchy chicken thighs of the angry bird, or the green chilli kick of the prawn curry. Drinks are fancy and this is a hugely likeable place, with more than enough pizazz to make it feel like Proper Night Out territory. 

Mowgli Street Food, 22 Hanover Street, Edinburgh.