Our day-tripper’s guide to exploring Adelaide city centre
It’s surrounded by rolling countryside, stunning urban beaches and some of the best cellar doors and vineyards in the country, but Jo Laidlaw finds there’s also plenty to enjoy in Adelaide’s compact city centre
Just like Edinburgh, Adelaide’s Fringe and Festival season sees the city exploding into a high-energy smorgasbord of art, culture and fun for one month every year. But for the rest of the time, the South Australian capital wears its tourist credentials lightly. After visiting the festivals regularly for The List, I decided to set myself a challenge: resist the lure of the Fringe, say no to the thrills of a road-trip and spend 24 hours hanging out in Adelaide city centre.
Let’s get the practical stuff out of the way: Adelaide’s public transport, especially in the Central Business District (CBD) is fantastic. Free trams and free ‘loop’ buses circle the CBD and link many of the tourist hot spots. It’s a lifesaver when the summer heat hits: all you have to do is jump on an air-conditioned tram to get where you want to go.
Adelaideans love their coffee (but aren’t as weird about it as people from Melbourne) and so there are plentiful options for a grab-n-go breakfast. If you want something more substantial, Kafi:n offers hearty brunches with lots of outdoor seating, while Peter Rabbit is always reliable and covers a variety of dietary options.
Once fuelled, head to Adelaide Botanic Garden for a peaceful wander. Go deeper with a Cultural Garden Tour hosted by a First Nations guide like Bookabee’s Hadyn Bromley. It’s a chance to learn about Country and the darker side of colonial history through your guide’s intricate knowledge of plants and place and a beautiful way to start your day.
Exiting the Garden on North Terrace means you’re perfectly placed to explore some of Adelaide’s year-round cultural treasures. Art Gallery Of South Australia is home to a stunning permanent collection, beautifully and unusually hung in large-scale ‘sets’ that bring new meanings to each individual piece. The Migration Museum is a small but fascinating dive into the story of the state’s diverse peoples, while The South Australian Museum holds the world’s most comprehensive collection of First Nations material and artifacts.
For lunch, head to Kiin on Angas Street for a masterclass in modern Asian cooking. The ‘feed me’ menu is a brilliant way to try lots of dishes without being overwhelmed by huge portions. However you choose to dine, don’t miss the prawn and lychee pop stick, squid skewer or the red curry cheeseburger (trust me). Walk off your lunch with a wander around The Mill, a year-round home for a diverse collection of local artists which always has something interesting hanging on its walls.
As day turns into night, jump on the tram to the railway station and follow the signs to Adelaide Oval for the crowning glory of your day: a twilight Roof Climb tour. Your guide will ease you up and over iconic roof arches, with plenty of time to watch the sunset and see the daily fly-past from the city’s iconic colony of grey-headed flying fox bats (who look really big from up there).
Finish with dinner at Africola, an Adelaide institution rightly feted for big-hearted cooking that’s heavy on smoke and spice. Everything’s meant for sharing, the service is as good-hearted as the colourful walls and there’s a cracking wine list too. It’s in the bustling East End, so you’re in the right place for a nightcap after. New spot Honeydripper is great for vinyl, cocktails and wine, or keep it traditional and head to The Exeter or The Austral for a final Coopers at the city’s best-kent bars.