They say that cars made for the European market are often given non-linguistically specific names that feel familiar to say but sound exotic enough to be exciting. ‘Mondeo’, ‘Supra’, ‘Corsa’ and the like. Pania, the Merchant City’s newest spot, can be approached in a similar vein: Spanish? Italian? What’s the vibe?

Well, the answer is mainly Spanish, yet unashamedly Italian when it suits them. This non super-specific balance works in their favour, alongside the big changes they’ve made to the site. Former inhabitants (including Marmalade Skies and wine bar Boudoir) didn’t embrace the big windows, but Pania does. The tables look out, or you can sit at the bar (extended, with full kitchen view). ‘Charcuterie’ is spelt out in massive red letters above hanging hams and peppers, and there are exciting-looking jars of pickles and brines. It all feels appropriately cosmopolitan.

With a day and night offering, energy stays high throughout, supported by an always-serving bar that emphasises vermouths, sherries and interesting wines, while Victoria Malaga lager is on draft in half pints only. Bold stuff. Daytime focuses on sandwiches and lunchy things (croque monsieur, grilled chorizo baguette), shifting to charcuterie boards and small plates around 4 or 5pm (they’re pretty fluid). The menu is not so much cooked as assembled and the quality shines through; big chunks of glossy, marinated Manchego arrive first, followed by gilda (a pepper-anchovy-olive combo), delivering a one-two of piercing peppery vinegar.

There are some hot dishes, including stunning morcilla de arroz: Spanish black pudding that uncrumbles with toasty rice and a delicate finish of sweet paprika. Various bread-based options for dipping are available and utterly necessary. Everything is punchy, everything makes sense and everything has style. Maybe specificity is over-rated: if enough Glaswegians are up for that (and the half pints), perhaps Pania itself is the vibe. 

Pania, 60 Candleriggs, Glasgow; average price for olives, bread and charcuterie plate £20.