The only thing on Paz Taqueria’s website is a phrase: ‘there will be tacos’. But that’s proved enough to pack the place with in-the-know taco lovers since it opened in December. Low lights, good tunes, great service, and the sure hand of Stuart McCluskey make this a fun space to spend an hour or two.

The cocktail list is short and punchy: the spicy Margarita is as strong as it should be, with fiery crushed chilli rim. The menu splits between antojitos (sharing dishes) and pairs of tacos (sharing optional). Sopes de choripapa are thick chewy corn patties, topped with creamy refried beans, crispy potatoes, chorizo or cauliflower, and a generous flurry of goat’s cheese. It’s a messy, delicious dish, even better with a scoop of the accompanying crunchy chilli sauce. The corn tacos are homemade, served just off the grill with salsas that zip from fresh herbs. Battered cod with charcoal and squid ink crema and fresh coriander is a hit, as is the veggie fried potato and black beans with salsa verde and pico de gallo.

The pulpo (octopus) taco is the most expensive dish on the menu at £9, still a bargain for the city centre, and worth every penny with beautifully tender confit octopus paired with pineapple. Indeed, every taco pair is strikingly different, each with an intriguing combination of flavours and textures, a few surprising ingredients and a real sense of fun. Just like Paz, which brings together the familiar and the experimental to hit all the right notes.

Paz Taqueria, 64 Thistle Street, Edinburgh; average price for two tacos £17.