‘Local’ is a tough concept to make work in a tourist-focused wee town, but relative newcomers Rogue Bros might just be pulling it off in South Queensferry’s bustling cobbled High Street. They’ve taken over the long-established Boathouse, and are slowly updating the gaff with new lights, outdoor furniture and the odd splash of colour against the pre-existing greige. Sensibly though, they’re focusing most of their makeover energies on the kitchen, where James and Mikey Sim (yep, bros IRL) are sending out the type of food people really want to eat.

Menus change with the seasons, though there’s always a special or two, with Mikey’s drinks industry experience showing in a compact yet convincing cocktail list. Dishes are divided into the now-familiar snacks/small plates/large plates. Rather than chasing a trend though, this feels like genuine encouragement to treat the place like home; popping in for a couple of bites and glass of wine midweek, settling into a lazy Sunday roast lunch with the family, or splurging on the huge pork tomahawk with a selection of sides on date night.

There’s still enough to attract the drop-in tourist diner: fish and chips to go along with the spectacular views of the bridges, maybe? But chicken schnitzel with remoulade is crispy, flavoursome and altogether more compelling, as is tikka masala coley: gently spiced, with perfectly flaking fish. Confidently casual and detail focused, there’s a fresh energy about the old place now, with this new kid on the block set to make waves. 

Rogue Bros At The Boathouse, 22 High Street, South Queensferry; average price for a main course and side £22.