A glance at the first Scottish outpost of Rosa’s Thai (a second has just opened in Edinburgh) suggests something a little quainter than what lies within. The clever work of a brand (and it’s a helluva brand these days), Rosa’s began life on London’s Brick Lane before taking over an old caff in Spitalfields, keeping the name ‘Rosa’s’ because they couldn’t afford a new sign.

That was in 2008. Fast forward and there are now more than 20 Rosa’s in London alone, with plenty elsewhere in England. There’s a notion that each spot slots into the energy and vibe of its neighbourhood, with fluid colour schemes and décor. For Glasgow, that means a bright red front with blue canopies giving off a chirpy café atmosphere. Inside though, it feels expansive and assured, with strategically hung bric-a-brac and posters. 

The menu focuses on Thai food with a broad appeal. So, alongside starters like fish cakes or pandan chicken parcels, there are ‘Thai calamari’ (with a dusting of tom yum powder) or chicken wings with a honey sriracha glaze: not too sweet, not too spicy, safely does it. Many menu items are fried and served with iterations of sriracha or sweet chilli dips, which will likely go down well.

It’s all reliably solid. A duck red curry has lean shreds of meat, leading with pineapple before giving way to a mild, murmuring heat. Pad Thai is equally surefooted, with controlled use of tamarind, noodles nicely coated and silky, and a thorough sprinkling of crushed peanuts: it’s somewhat lip-smacking. If some diners want more punch, oomph and funk, this maybe isn’t the place for them. Ultimately, Rosa’s Thai is clear in what it sets out to do, and does it perfectly well. 

Rosa’s Thai, 41–43 West Nile Street, Glasgow.