It’s a case of upstairs, downstairs at Sotto, one of the final big openings in 2024’s foodie hotspot of Stockbridge. Climb the steps from the street to the big-windowed bar area and perch at its communal central counter. Tuck into top-drawer bar snacks and a glass of something delicious from a list that (like the food) roams Italy from top to toe, alongside great drops from the McLaren Vale winery of owner-sommelier James Clark’s brother-in-law.

If you’re in the mood for something a little more substantial, descend to the trattoria. It’s a classy space (think marble-topped tables, dark-wood panels, cork ceiling and flattering lighting) with a super-value lunch deal and à la carte options. But be brave, relinquish control and let the kitchen (led by Francesco Ascrizzi) choose, with a four-course chef’s selection that is great bang for your buck. 

Here, the gentle sweetness of fig purée elevates creamy burrata. A ping of chilli heat and glossy, salty cavolo nero pair beautifully with skilfully seared scallops on Jerusalem artichoke purée. There’s real confidence in the cooking: tomatoey octopus ragù dazzles, enveloping tubes of rigatoni, dusted with the toasty crunch of olive pangratatto. The most tender venison loin shouts seasonality, with earthy chestnut purée and lingonberry jus, while coffee-drizzled mascarpone is a perfectly unfussy note to finish on. 

Sotto, 28–32 Deanhaugh Street, Edinburgh; four-course chef’s selection, £50.