Food provenance has always been a non-negotiable for Dale Mailley (of The Gardener’s Cottage and The Lookout fame). That’s no different at his latest venture which has seamlessly settled into the former Bells Diner space in Stockbridge. What is different though is the casual vibe, both in setting and cooking. With white walls, a few prints dotted around, red-and-white checked tablecloths and a concise blackboard menu and wine list, the room has just three communal tables (each seating six) plus a handful of window seats. There’s not a gel, foam or smear in sight: just the best produce cooked superbly. 

The pared-back, flavour-first approach hits every mark. Singing with capers and smoky bacon, tender squid zings with lemony, salty notes, while there’s textural contrast from linseed and pumpkin seeds. The menu really does change daily, based on what’s available and in season. It could be richly gamey roasted grouse, with veal jus, girolles and celeriac purée, or maybe a grilled half-lobster with a lovely hit of lovage. The next day, a dark-as-sin hare stew oozes into mash, or there’s simple sparkling mackerel with pink fir potatoes. 

Just two options round things off: smooth, nutty alp blossom cheese with a sticky dollop of honeycomb, or the flaky gorgeousness of bramley tarte tatin with honey ice-cream. Don’t debate: have both. The best bit? For this quality, it’s super-affordable, and with breakfast and lunch on offer too, it’s the kind of place any neighbourhood would absolutely kill to have on their doorstep.

Stockbridge Eating House, 7 St Stephen Street, Edinburgh; average price for two courses £34.