There’s a bit of excitement around Sub Rosa, a new Detroit-style pizza place making waves from an industrial unit at the edge of Castlemilk. A winding road, skirting Linn Park, takes you there: it’s on the first floor but cars drive up a ramp and park outside and it does feel like Jason Statham could step out of a black Range Rover with a suitcase handcuffed to his wrist. Enter and you’re in a prep kitchen: gingham tablecloths make it a restaurant, and a Lego Ayrton Senna McLaren model, Oasis poster, and couple of Italian football strips on the wall make it bloody bonkers.

But from there on, everything is strikingly deliberate. Nunez De Prado olive oil and imported Lloyd pizza pans signify intent, as does the owners’ previous stint at Canotto in the Southside. The offering is simple: red or white, round or Detroit, toppings as you see fit. A Detroit feeds two and the cheese-climb frico is majestic, browned to crisp glory and defying gravity. Pepperoni is nicely blackened, guindilla peppers are scorched and spiky, and pulpy San Marzano tomatoes soak into the dough before a sesame-seeded undercarriage finishes things off with crunch. 

The round is thinner, crispy and equally nailed with a chewy, airy, perfectly seasoned crust, with soft, milky cheese that browns and bubbles when it needs to. A vibrant lemon wedge and some Calabrian oregano, flicked off the branch before the oil is drizzled, maintain the remarkable attention to flavour and detail: you taste every single thing to the correct extent. This understated pizza place in an industrial estate on the outskirts of the city is a masterclass in accuracy and, as a far fancier publication likes to say of far fancier places, is definitely worth the detour. 

Sub Rosa Pizza, Unit 34, Enterprise Park, 147 Drakemire Drive, Glasgow; average price for a Detroit sharer for two £28.