Across Glasgow, before the morning sun turns the sky from black to merely grey, delivery vans scuttle about delivering freshly made rolls to the city’s convenience stores. The crispy roll is as essential to Glasgow’s diet as Irn-Bru – and it’s not uncommon for both to be purchased together, with fillings ranging from classic breakfast products like sausage and bacon, to cold cuts and cheese – or even Scotch pies.

From the classic crispy roll to the black-topped well-fired rolls – which are bulk-fermented for extra flavour, then hand cut and baked at a high temperature to give that famous well-fired crust – the two leading producers are McGhee's and Mortons, the former selling over 500,000 crispy rolls each week.

It’s an art that trendier artisan bakers leave to the old masters. James Hughes, owner of Tapa Organic says: ‘There are bakers in the city who excel at crispy rolls, and it’s best that we leave them to it.’