Pub pop-ups. Not a new concept, but one that’s building in momentum and quality and one we love to see. Instead of pubs stretching to get the chips on between pouring pints, pop-up kitchens bring in enthusiasm, fresh flavour and, often, a new clientele, while those creating the food get to try a new concept without the stress and cost of launching a restaurant. Everyone wins, especially hungry customers. 

In Edinburgh, the pop-up du jour is King Of Feasts, a kitchen concept from chef Rob Casson. For the last few years they’ve been residents at Polwarth Tavern, offering fried chicken, big sandwiches, burgers and hot-plate specials in an area still a little underserved by restaurants. This autumn, with a bigger team, the regent has expanded his kingdom to Leith Walk, opening in the kitchens at neighbourhood favourite The Mother Superior from Thursday to Monday.

The King Of Feasts’ menu is simple: small plates, hot bowls and sandwiches, all seasonal and very tempting. On a cold night the oyako udon hits the spot, available with either chicken thighs or oyster mushrooms that come hot, crunchy and deliciously piled on top of a bowl of Sichuan-spiced noodles with pickles and omelette. The broth is deeply flavoured and a perfect match for a crisp pint of Leith Juice. There’s plenty to choose from and it all looks outstanding, including a big sandwich of burnt corn, squash and miso fritters with pickles, miso garlic mayo and house-made pastrami.

This collaboration makes for a brilliant combo. The Mother Superior is a cracking wee pub, with a great selection of beers including local favourites Campervan, Newbarns, Pilot and alcohol-free Jump Ship from East Lothian. The cocktail list punches way above most and the choice of whiskies is vast. There’s live music, weekly quiz nights and the staff are great too. 

The Mother Superior X King Of Feasts, 96–98 Leith Walk, Edinburgh; check out The King Of Feasts Instagram; average price for a main course £10.