Welcome to the fifth edition of our weekly wine column, in which we highlight a great bottle and let you know its price point, the story behind its winemakers and, most importantly, how it tastes. Whether you're a dyed-in-the-wool imbiber or looking to refine your palate with a diverse range of bottles, check back every week for a new review.

If I was the proprietor of a bumper sticker factory, and sadly I'm not, I'd have the maxim 'Life's too short for mediocre Beaujolais' printed a thousand times and sent to every vintner on the planet. Until then, not every wine I review for this column is going to be a winner.

After four weeks of wines that have satisfied me, and even wines that have surprised me, I've found a bottle that's failed to set my palate alight.

Perhaps the fault lies with me – The Chateau De Pizay Beaujolais 2020, this week's wine, wasn't selected at random, but because Thursday 18 November is Beaujolais Nouveau Day, the annual festivity when the first bottles of gamay grape wine from the Beaujolais region in France can be sold. While the wine I've chosen isn't of the Nouveau variety, which means a wine which has been sold in the same year as its grape was picked, my garden variety Beaujolais seemed like an adequate tipple to toast the occasion.

Sold through Majestic Wines, the Chateau De Pizay's grapes are picked on a vast estate which caters to six different appellations, white Beaujolais, rosé Beaujolais, red Beaujolais, Régnié, and Brouilly Château de Saint-Lager, each of which is highly regarded for its taste and body.

Yet something didn't sit right with me as I contemplated my first glass of this underwhelming bottle. Although light in taste, its airy quality belied a mildness and an indistinct body. Adding to the mixture is a high acidity which, while not uncommon in a Beaujolais, was like Godzilla's foot through a skyscraper, stomping out any semblance of a top note and leaving little else in its wake.

Some wines are mysterious, their qualities only presenting themselves after a few glasses. Others are mood-dependent, inviting you to try them again when you've had the right meal. This is not one of those wines. While we recommend sampling a Beaujolais for next week's annual gamay grape blow-out, this is a bottle I won't raise a toast to.

The Chateau De Pizay Beaujolais 2020 is available from Majestic Wines for £12.99.