Caribbean dining is rare in a city whose multiculturalism tends to lean east rather than west: a couple of independents (Rum Shack and Bantaba) and a chain (Turtle Bay) is about it. It’s odd, given how many fingers the city had in the transatlantic trade pie; indeed, Tropical Café’s attractive corner spot is in the Merchant City, whose namesakes grew wealthy on enslaved peoples as well as goods like tobacco and sugar.

Stand-out starter is doubles, an addictive Trinidadian dish reminiscent of Indian pooris, with fried flatbread topped with channa (curried chickpeas) and tangy tamarind sauce. Chicken wings are enjoyable, with dunking options including a mild jerk sauce and a hotter Scotch bonnet (named after the resemblance to the tam o’shanter).

Alongside curries, burgers and fish, excellent bone-in chicken headlines. Available quartered or halved (or as boneless thighs), the meat is nicely chargrilled, flecked with crispy edges that give way to delicious juicy insides. Expect messy but not hot: no fiery jerk hit here. Order it solo or with two sides, including the nicely done staple of rice and peas. Sweet potato fries are among the best anywhere, while plantain slices come fried crispy brown outside, lovely gooey yellow inside.

As a new joint, there’s the odd teething issue: service is a little green and the menu is a bit skewey in places, but who’s complaining? It’s a West Indian diner. Watch the drone footage of unimaginably verdant islands, soak up the calypso music and sip a rum cocktail or Red Stripe. All’s good. 

Tropical Café, 51 Bell Street, Glasgow; average price for two courses £20.